Feeling the Pressure
In your nitrous article (Exploring Nitrous - Part Two)
you say a bottle pressure of 750-1000 psi is needed. From both personal
experience and what I've been reading, a bottle pressure of 900-950 psi is
750 – 1000 psi is a typical nitrous
operating range only. As you have indicated, there are several systems optimised
for operation at more than 900 psi.
Make it Heavier
I have been reading the steering weight adjustment article (Mapping Power Steering Weight)
with interest but have so far not been able to relate it to my car. I have a '02
Subaru Forester GT and have been unable to find out if it is possible to vary
the weight of the steering. Is it possible that the steering is so low tech that
is simply assisted but not variable? I have a friend who has looked and tells me
that there is nothing of any relevance in the service manual (CD). I have also
posed this question on a Forester forum but have not had any success. How can I
tell if what I need to do to make my steering heavier (without resorting to
A look at a wiring diagram should
reveal whether the car uses an electronically controlled power steering system
(which will typically use a pulse width modulated solenoid to control hydraulic
pressure). If it uses a PWM
modulated solenoid, you can use the DPA as discussed in the article.
I read your review of the
Ford Territory (Ford Territory Ghia AWD Test)
and find it hard to comprehend. My wife and I, after reading a number of
reviews, took a
Ford Territory for
a test drive. We took it over sealed roads with some dips. By the time we had
travelled 30km we both felt car sick. We took the car back to the dealer and he
had a 2003 Ford Explorer - something we would normally not have considered.
After driving the Explorer there was no way we would consider the Territory. We
bought the Explorer - we both felt it drove like a big car and handled well on
curves and bends in the road.
We’re surprised you disliked the
Territory within such a short distance. Good luck with the Explorer!
A Cooler Cooler
I wonder if you can settle a disagreement between and a few mates? I’m saying
that a front-mount intercooler would be more efficient if it was painted in
radiator paint to improve the thermal conductivity. But my mate says it will
insulate the FMIC. Please correct me if I’m wrong, because I’ve just mounted an
intercooler in the bumper of my Toyota GT4 ST185 and don’t want to mess up the
install by painting it matt black...
We have seen conflicting literature on
the matter but our testing leads us to believe that a black painted intercooler
performs better than a bare one.
GTO Alignment Issues
What is the deal with Pontiac GTOs? The rear of my GTO is toed-in on top,
making my tyres go bald. Is there anything you can think of that makes this
We assume you mean it has too much
negative camber (which wears the rear tyres’ inside edge). It sounds like a rear
camber kit is what you need. These – and various other suspension parts – are
available from www.whiteline.com.au
I just ran across Julian Edgar's series on intercooler sprayers (starting at
Intelligent Intercooler Water Spray - Part 1).
I have a 1994 Audi UrS4 that makes 400+bhp and this device sounds perfect for my
driving needs. Can the complete system be purchased? I'm afraid some of the
parts listed may not be available in the
The Intelligent intercooler water
spray controller can be bought at AutoSpeed Shop.
The nozzle is at AutoSpeed Shop;
and the reservoir/pump kit is AutoSpeed Shop
Cool Me Down
I’ve just installed a blower on my tow vehicle (a 454ci Chev) and I need to
do something about the added heat. A spray bar in front of the radiator for
those stressful moments is what I'm after. Not a full-time spray - just for the
The intelligent intercooler spray
controller can be configured to control radiator spray nozzles. We have a series
on this device, starting at Intelligent Intercooler Water Spray - Part 1
RX Under Stuff
A friend of mine has a 1988 Subaru RX and is having a bit of a hard time
finding suspension parts that fit it (shocks, swaybars, coil-overs, etc). Do you
know of any vendors or shops which provide (or even have experience making) gear
for these cars? Apparently even his friends on the big Subaru forums don't know
anything about parts for these cars. He says he's tried calling major vendors
like Koni directly and received negative responses on drop-in parts. If you have
any ideas on where else to look (anywhere worldwide) I'd love to be able to pass
on some good news to him.
Hmm, we don’t know of anyone with
suspension parts to suit. Maybe some readers can help out?
Is there a cheap and ezy engine transplant to suit a Suzuki Vitara 1988? I
was looking at fitting a 1600 EFI Japanese import, but these are very rare where
I am. I did find a Suzuki 1996 Vitara Estate V6 auto half-cut, but this is
AUD$4400 or AUD$3300 for the engine only. On the other hand, I know you can buy
a brand new Mitsubishi 3.5 litre V6 Pajero engine from the local dealership for
just AUD$2990 - but I don’t think it would fit. I have a budget of $2500. Any
help would be greatly appreciated.
We assume you’ve got the base 1.6
litre carby model with 55kW. The 71kW EFI version is the easiest upgrade but,
given these vehicles are available locally for a similar price, we suggest that
you trade-in. The V6 Vitara engine would be the second easiest conversion but we
imagine would be impossible with a budget of AUD$2500. Go the trade-in!