I found the article on modifying regen braking on the Toyota Prius (A World First: Modifying Regen Braking)
very informative. When it comes to modifying important safety systems like the
brakes, it would be good to know what will happen in the case of a "mod gone
wrong". For example with the Prius mod, what happens if the electronic elements
added to the system fail? Do the brakes and associated failsafe systems still
The mod mentioned applies only to the
hybrid battery’s regenerative braking system – even if the add-on electronic
module fails, the hydraulic brakes still operate normally.
DFA – Hooray!
I followed with interest your article on Real World Air/Fuel Ratio Tuning.
Further to this I wondered if you had any further information about the
Do-It-Yourself electronic interceptor?
The Digital Fuel Adjuster kit is now available through the
AutoSpeed shop – see AutoSpeed Shop.
For detailed set-up of it and other kits you might be
interested in the book 'High Performance Electronics for Cars' - AutoSpeed Shop
Hello - I am a 30 year old car enthusiast living in ‘ice-cold’
Norway. I have a
very specific question for you:
In a lot of situations I have wanted a small, cheap adjustable rpm-sensing
switch. This would be useful in many projects, like tachometer shift lamps,
home-made modifications to engine/gearbox, etc. It has to have an adjustable
switching point (rpm) and should be able to read rpm from the ignition signal or
the tachometer signal. It would be nice if it was compact, easy to build and
Can you please try to develop a circuit that does this and then publish an
article in your great magazine?
A Frequency Switch kit is now being
sold by Jaycar Electronics (Cat No KC-5378) for AUD$35.95 - and we plan to show
readers many uses for the product in future articles. The kit can be purchased
through the AutoSpeed shop
You seem to have Jayco and Jaycar confused in your latest
"For specific advice about the camper I even rang the Jaycar advisory line –
only to receive a wet shower. Jaycar – or at least the guy on the other end of
the phone – did".
BTW, if you really want something to camp in around
Tvan is probably a better bet - instant set-up and strong enough to go off-road.
All in a 750kg (dry) package - see www.mrt.com.au
I think Julian got a little over emotional in his latest
Maybe he just shops too much at Jaycar, but I don't think they sell camper
"We were absolutely serious, looking at the tow-bar rating of my Lexus, going
to the local Jayco dealer, and checking out the rental rates we’d get for our
house while we were gone. For specific advice about the camper I even rang the
Jaycar advisory line – only to receive a wet shower. Jaycar – or at least the
guy on the other end of the phone – didn’t at all like the idea of living in an
The latest Driving Emotion
has several references to "Jaycar" instead of "Jayco" - force of habit I guess,
otherwise keep up the good work and be thankful for all us armchair editors!
Article now fixed.
In the article Rear Sway Bars: Improving FWD Handling,
I am having some difficulty understanding this image...
The swaybar seems to be rigidly joined at both ends to the axle beam,
effectively simply increasing the stiffness of the axle beam. So why fit a sway
bar standard when they could have just changed the design of the axle beam?
As you suggest, the swaybar fitted to
the Prius rear-end torsionally stiffens the axle. The reason this approach is often taken is that it allows easy variation in rear roll stiffness to suit different markets.
Re “Bag Me” - Joel Cottle (Response)
Try this guy - he's the best I have come across in
Jazz or Fiesta?
I am currently in the market to buy a small car.
I am test driving the Fiesta LX at the moment and totally agree with you
regarding the NVH of the car (Ford Fiesta Ghia Road Test).
I also test drove the Honda Jazz (New Car Test - Honda Jazz VTi-S)
and it is a much better car than the Fiesta - apart from the cost of the Jazz, I
can’t see why it is not a winner. However, I was surprised to see that some car
reviews stated "the Fiesta has low noise and vibration..." It makes me wonder if
they have their ear-plugs in when testing the car... How in the world can it win
the "Small Car of the Year” award? Having said that, I quite like the design of
the car and some of its neat features.
Anyway, I just want your view on the 2005 Jazz - considering it is a bit more
expensive than its rivals. Performance and smoothness wise, I quite like the
If only the NVH was improved in the Fiesta and air-conditioning came
standard. A less expensive auto option would also help me consider it - I quite
enjoy driving it...
We’ll hit up Honda for a test of the
MY05 Jazz and let you know how it compares to the original ’03 – ‘04 model.
Any chance of getting figures quoted in consistent units? Articles seem to
jump between hp and kW. Perhaps you could just quote it in both? It seems now
and then an article will use hp instead of kW randomly. Great mag – I always
looking forward to the next issue.
Point taken – we’ll keep an eye on our
use of hp and kW figures.
I am currently building a TG Holden Gemini wagon. I have found myself a
Holden Piazza 2.0 litre fuel-injected block that has been built up for use with
a turbo, and need to find a VL Commodore turbocharger, intercooler and turbo
timer to attach to the motor. Can you give me a few suggestions as to what kind
of turbochargers would be suitable (eg TO4, RB30, T25, etc) that I could track
down through most wreckers and/or auto parts recyclers.
The ‘suitable’ turbocharger depends
how much power you want. Your best bet is to use a turbo with a T3-type mounting
flange; this will give you the flexibility to achieve a reasonably high output.
As a starting point we suggest an ex-R32 Skyline GTS turbocharger – these are
available cheaply, provide good response and should be suitable for up to around
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