Cool Comment
Re “Cool Fuel” in Response on September, 12th (Response...
I think if you have a cooler for fuel coming into the fuel rail, or even for
the tank, it would not make as much difference as cooler intake air. Having said
this, vapour lock is not fun - so make sure it’s not too hot!
Ian Armstrong
Australia
Re Slow Bikes #8
Re Driving Emotion 12 Sep, 2004 by Julian Edgar
An interesting article - particularly as I grew up and learned to drive in
the Adelaide Hills. I have also spent time as a professional riding instructor.
The successful application of motorcycle potential to real-world speed is not
a simple exercise - and those who believe otherwise are often those who come to
grief. Having said that, a successful practitioner is - in my opinion - more
than likely going to out-perform an equivalently skilled and equipped car driver
over a point-to-point course. I would think, from Julian's writing, that he is a
highly experienced driver who actually understands words like 'understeer' and
'braking forces' and can actually apply/utilise them (rather than mouth them
sagaciously in conversation). Whether he likes it or not, his capabilities - in
a range of equipment over a period of formal association with vehicle assessment
activities - has probably placed him squarely into the upper-echelon of road
drivers, skills wise.
Most motorcyclists, unfortunately, cannot claim to be similarly skilled;
often relying on the somewhat phenomenal capabilities of relatively inexpensive
machines. This opinion is reinforced by twin key statistics regarding motorcycle
accidents - firstly: over 70% being single vehicle accidents caused by 'rider
error' and secondly: the incidence of accidents climbs sharply after three years
without formal training.
Growing up in the Adelaide Hills and driving modified Falcon V8s I have quite
confidently exercised the right foot across some real world 'courses' to the
detriment of two and four- wheeled 'competitors'. Later experiences in my wife's
M-modified BMW E34 5 series introduced me to some exceptional handling and
control capabilities in a Euro engineered vehicle which seriously shamed
competing road-users from WRX-pilots to R33 wannabes - and yes, a number of
bikes as well. Meanwhile my daily ride (Honda Firestorm - a 'sports-tourer'
classed bike) regularly keeps me clear of four-wheeled traffic on runs to the
coast down the in-famous
Clyde Mountain.
I, meanwhile, am far outstripped by the "specialists" who do this run once or
twice a month, year round.
So, skills aside, what is the major drawback to bike performance in real
world conditions? The answer of course is braking - with tiny contact patches
and relatively small swept area, bikes are almost universally out-braked by
cars. When this is coupled with less than adequate skills the result is a
squirt-brake-squirt-brake riding style where only the acceleration of the
machine keeps it ahead of a 'competing' car driver. A more skilled rider (as
with drivers) becomes smoother and carries progressively higher corner speed.
When the skills rise commensurately with bike capabilities I believe that a car
driver is going to have to extend her/his self further to her/his vehicles
limits than the equivalently skilled and equipped rider.
Your other observation - Julian - that you weren't confident in assessing the
age/capability of the bike/s you commented about is also significant as - to the
un- or poorly initiated there may be little difference between a late 1980s and
a current bike (styling wise). There are, however, enormous differences in
handling due in large part to the reductions in weight that have been achieved
in the interim. Suspension and chassis compliance have been improved - often
significantly - as has overall power but it is the reduction in weight from the
220 - 260kg range to the 160-180kg range that differentiates the real world
potential of these machines.
Cars like the Liberty RS, various Lexi (Lexuses?) and so on, are reasonably
well-balanced and assured; historical motorcycling behemoths tortured their
tyres and exhausted their riders as they wrestled them along Australian roads.
Further potential for injury. Even now, I push myself harder in a car than on
my bike (except when I feel particularly foolhardy) with the (often erroneous
and usually subconscious) assurance that I am more "protected" in a car. On the
bike there is you, and then there are the road, trees, rocks and various other
unfriendly and unyielding items of scenery should a mistake result in a less
than beneficent outcome.
This tempers real world ardour in all but the most determined, confident or
stupid riders. Still, I remain convinced that a motorcyclist will generally
outpace a car (point to point) on real roads if similarly skilled and equipped
with similar level equipment although I agree that this would not necessarily be
a result of higher cornering speed. The facts appear to be, however, that you
are much more likely to encounter poorly skilled riders relying on
high-potential machinery than you are to come across riders who can actually
utilise this potential (these guys being off in the distance...).
As a final aside, when conducting motorcycle training courses where riders
'elect' what group they are part of (fast, medium, slow), it is my experience
that the majority of training 'accidents' befall the self-styled 'fast' riders
as they regularly exceed their actual capabilities.
Stuart Eling
Australia
Re Slow Bikes #9
Re Driving Emotion...
I've been riding for quite a few years and used a bike as my main transport device for several years.
Motorcycle Online had adiscussion
recently about the same topic and it was interesting to read all the comments and explanations
given as to which is quicker - a bike or a car around a corner.
I think at the end of the day when you look at which is quicker, I would
suggest it is more the rider than the machine. Most riders don't use the full
potential of their bikes. At the risk of being flamed, in my personal
experience, it is harder to ride than drive fast around a corner. When you have the bike over and knee
down, all you need is a small spill of diesel or crap patch-up job to really
upset your day.
On a suitable track with expert pilots, I think the bike would have the
advantage, but on our second rate roads with average Joe riding and driving, I
think the advantage would be a lot smaller, if at all. Bike rider ability and
confidence plays a big part in how fast you go. I would love to see a comparo
between some quick bikes and cars on some tracks.
Jason Martin
Australia
Re Slow Bikes #10
Regarding your piece on the slowness of motorbikes around corners (Driving Emotion). I have ridden big fast
modern bikes in Tasmania and
New Zealand for
years now. It has to be said that on the rare occasions you come across a well
driven competent car you haven't a chance on a bike in the corners. However, the bike usually makes it up
easily out of the corner thanks to its pure power to weight advantage.
Although chassis, suspension and tyres have improved immensely, bikes are
still difficult things to ride well. It is ever so easy to think you are quick
because of the acceleration available between the bends. However, to corner fast
you have to look way up the road, maintaining a constant distance to the
vanishing point, understand counter-steering and above all be smooth and
relaxed. And when done right you can be deceptively quick - the good riders look slow.
Now, herein lies the difference between bikes and cars. Because a bike leans
through a corner, all forces the rider feels act vertically through the body,
and all that means is that the faster you corner the more your bum is pressed
into the seat. In a car the forces are lateral and bits of your body are flung
from side to side with increasing violence as speed increases. So I think it is
much easier to be consistently faster on a bike because the cornering forces
acting on you are much more comfortable.
And in answer to your question as to whether you have encountered only slow
bike riders, you may well have, but I would still think in a good car you would
be faster than a good rider. There are a lot of riders I suspect who have never
learnt to corner. For most it isn't intuitively obvious - you need to be shown
counter-steering for a start, and told to look way up the road if you don't
already (something that doesn't do your car driving any harm either).
Anyway, the real point is that cars and bikes are wonderful things and you
can't have too many of them.
Robert Hookway
NZ
Short Life Discs?
Subject – On-site disc machining article dated September 16th,
2004 (On-Site Disc Machining).
Your disc machine article, while interesting, avoided the major problem with
machining discs - namely all the external disc hardening has been removed.
For 10 years, I've been travelling to Auckland from
Wellington weekly. You meet most of
the cab drivers and it is possible to build up an expert knowledge of the real
faults and longevity of EA Falcons/Fairmonts, which run up to 400,000km before
being turned over.
The drivers are universal in their opinion that if discs are machined, then
6-9 months later you are up for a brand new set of discs, as the remaining disc
has simply worn away. I have resolutely avoided ever having discs machined (you
have to specify it in writing to all brake places.) And I have never ever
replaced disks. Sure, with new pads an initial caution is desirable while pads
wear to match the existing disk, but once done, it is fine. (Lexus SC400 with
250,000km on the clock)
I would be interested in long term reports of discs after they have been
machined, as I have personally been aware of many people in Wellington who
allowed (by lack of knowledge) to have discs machined, and then a reasonable
time later, a new set of discs really stung them....
What say you?
Roger De Salis
New
Zealand
You raise a very interesting topic. We
haven’t had problems with machined discs in the past but, then, we tend not to
hold onto cars for too long... Do any readers have experiences to share?
Fiat Conversion
I’m currently looking at doing a Nissan CA18DET conversion into my beloved
Fiat 124. Although the Fiat engines rev and sound great, I want the power and
everyday driveability of some fuel injected turbo’d power...
I've researched nearly everything I believe I need to and, being a structures
engineer, avid car builder (and handy with a welder), I decided to take on this
project myself... I've found that the CA18DET is roughly the same physical size
as the Fiat 1800 minus power steering, AC, etc. It also looks like I’ve found a
shorter gearbox than the super-long Silvia ‘boxes to fit in to the car.
Other than me waffling on, my question is this... I haven’t checked out a Subie
EJ20T but am very intrigued by them. Are these engines very long? Longer than,
say, an Nissan SR motor? I've noticed in parts catalogues that these engines are
readily available - are they out of Rexies or older Suby wagons or something?
Also, what sort of setup could you use for just a real wheel drive gearbox? I
know that being horizontally opposed I should be worried more about the width -
are they a tightly packed unit? Any info on these engines you can give me would
be fantastic....
Aaron
Australia
The Subaru EJ20 turbo engine is very
strong. The engine is very short but, as you indicated, it is very wide. Unless
the engine bay of a vehicle is designed to accept a horizontally-opposed engine
we can’t see it going in. EJ20Ts are fitted to local Liberty RS sedans and
wagons and WRXs and, like the CA18DET, are available through importers.
CA18DET conversion sounds effective,
neat and relatively affordable.
Porsches for Everyone #1
Please amend your article Porsche's 911 - Part Two
The paragraph in question:
“At last, in late 1992, the 964-type 911 Turbo was upgraded to the 3.6 litre
engine capacity used throughout the rest of the range. This move upped the ante
to a huge 521Nm and 265kW – together with a (new) retail price tag that equates
to approximately AUD$1 per kilowatt... It also came with 18 inch modular wheel
as seen on the earlier Turbo S. Curiously, boost pressure was not electronically
controlled as in other mass produced turbo cars of the era.
Should be amended to AUD$1 per watt, otherwise I would have a couple of these
parked in my garage right now!!!!
Brett Richards
Australia
Porsches for Everyone #2
Love your work, I frantically check AutoSpeed every single morning before
work to see what new articles are available!
One small query though...In your article Porsche's 911 Part Two, you state that "This move
upped the ante to a huge 521Nm and 265kW – together with a (new) retail price
tag that equates to approximately AUD$1 per kilowatt..."
If that’s true, then that’s a cheap Porsche!! At $265 each I'll take 10.
Joe Saraceni
Australia
Porsches for Everyone #3
In Part 2 of your Porsche 911 article (Porsche's 911 Part Two)
you state that...
“At last, in late 1992, the 964-type 911 Turbo was upgraded to the 3.6 litre
engine capacity used throughout the rest of the range. This move upped the ante
to a huge 521Nm and 265kW – together with a (new) retail price tag that equates
to approximately AUD$1 per kilowatt...”
I was wondering... I have a spare AUD$300, where can I get one of these cars? I
might even spend the AUD$35 on upgrades ;) I thought I’d point it out, though
I’m sure you've had plenty of feedback on this one already.
Marty Plsek
Australia
Oops - that was meant to be AUD$1k per
kilowatt... Article now fixed!
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