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Some of this week's Letters to AutoSpeed

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Cooper Capers Identified

In Response you had a letter regarding the ABS light staying on in a Mini Cooper (“Cooper Capers”).

It appears that the main reason the ABS light comes on is that the ABS sensor for the right front wheel is not located correctly or fully in the cross-member. This can lead to the crank pulley hitting it or the sensor not picking up the wheel signal properly. One of the Senior Techs at my place of work has replaced a sensor and had it happen to him after doing so. You must clear the fault memory after the problem is rectified.

As always, a good scan tool or BMW/Mini dealer should trace down the cause of an error light. This should be the starting point.

Graham Pring

Very Handy!

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A great online mag you guys have - I recently bought every issue and subscribed! You have some great articles and electronic projects that will come in very handy for the 2JZ-GTE conversion into my R31 Nissan Skyline. I am doing pretty much all the work in my shed with mates. Keep those tech articles and Do-It-Yourself projects coming!


Missing MIVEC

Regarding your article on the Mitsubishi MIVEC series of engines (Mountain of MIVECs)...

Here's one from the 1990s which you missed out - and it's the big daddy! There was a MIVEC version of the 6G74 3.5-litre V6, which I understand made in the order of 206kW at 6500 rpm and 348Nm at 3000 rpm. It was fitted to a very interesting vehicle - the Pajero Evolution. This limited edition run of SWB Pajeros was essentially a road-going version of some of Mitsubishi's successful Paris-Dakar rally vehicles (in much the same way as the Lancer Evolution series is).


By the way, I have a Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R as tested in your article on the MIVEC FTO (Pre-Owned Performance - Mitsubishi FTO MIVEC V6 GP Automatic). Mine is a 5-speed manual and I love it – an awesome car to drive. Keep up the good work!

Simon Lye
New Zealand

You’re absolutely right – thank for the excellent info!

After an Economical Runabout

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Full-size diesel 4x4 wagons have always been my weapon of choice. But, despite their fuel efficiency compared to petrol-powered cousins, the current AUD$1.50 per litre diesel price in the remote town where I live is starting to hurt my pocket.

I am considering a second more economical two-wheel-drive runabout. I have a wife and large dog so am not keen on two-door Suzuki Swift or Mazda 121 alternatives. Can you give me some examples of small to medium cars in the last decade with decent economy (around 7-litres per 100km or better) that are also within AUD$3000 – AUD$6000?

Jeff Dean

Sounds like you need something in the 1.6 to 2-litre class. Take a look at the Daewoo Espero and Nubira, Daihatsu Applause, Ford Laser and Mondeo, Hyundai Lantra and Sonata, Mazda 626/Telstar, Mitsubishi Lancer, Nissan Pulsar, Toyota Corolla/Holden Nova, Seat Toledo and Suzuki Baleno. There’s also the Nissan Bluebird 2.4 litre and Toyota Camry 2.2 litre, but they’re pushing past 7-litres per 100km.

Bag a Bellmouth

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A while back you had an article on Do-It-Yourself bellmouths using eggcups - Ballistic Bellmouths. Do you know if they are still available? If so, where can I get them from?

John Gilbert

We’re not sure if Woolworths still has the same stainless steel eggcups but any similar product should do the trick. We suggest that you visit the cooking section of a couple of department stores.

Wrong Spec

Just a quick note... In your article "Right Way GT-R" (Right Way GT-R) you mention that the car is a V-Spec II. Are you sure? As far as I know there has never been a R33 GT-R V-Spec II... Plenty of other R33 GT-R variants - the Autech four-door, V-Spec, LM, N1 and the mighty 400R.

Keep up the good work! You are by far the best automotive performance mag on the planet.

Guy El Khoury

Our mistake – it is a R33 Skyline R33 V-spec. Article now corrected.

Water Injection Controller

I am interested in the motor speed control module for use in a water injection system. What I need is the schematic which will automatically vary the flow of water with engine load. I hope you can help me out.


The perfect unit for your application is the Independent Electronic Boost Controller (IEBC).  The IEBC receives an injector duty cycle input (which represents engine load) and can be configured to drive a water injector. See The Independent Electronic Boost Control, Part 1 for more.

Duelling Lathes

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Re your On-Site Disc Machining article (The Independent Electronic Boost Control, Part 1). I would be interested to buy a mobile brake lathe or a stationary one. Would you know what the best brands are in this category?


We suggest talking to long-running brake machining operators, such as the company listed in the article – Mobile Brake Specialists Pty Ltd (Adelaide, South Australia) on +61 8 8211 8442

Fuel Experimentation

I'm always looking for more efficient ways to go about things. One thing I came across while doing a bit of research is adding a small amount of acetone to regular gasoline. Supposedly, the benefits include better economy, better emissions and more complete combustion (emissions being related to completeness of burn).

Before I go off experimenting with acetone, I am curious about the effects on the fuel system. I am also building a fuel vaporizer that runs through the PCV system. Does acetone oxidize aluminium like some alcohols?

Paul Jehlen

Can any readers help with their experiences or further information?

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