In your article about the FPV GT-P
New Car Test - FPV GT-P
I noticed a spelling error...
"The differential is a Dana M86 unit featuring a wet mutilate clutch" – I
hope you meant multi-plate not a mutilate clutch!
Hmm, we don’t remember the clutch
being mutilated but, yes, it was a multi-plate! Error now corrected.
Celica Box Swap
I recently purchased a Toyota Celica SX 1991 automatic and I was hoping
you would have some information about who I could contact to get a manual
transmission conversion. Any information you have would be much appreciated
Any high-performance workshop should
be able to do it - but the conversion will likely cost quite a bit by the time
you add the cost of new pedals, gearbox, clutch and numerous other parts. We
suggest that you trade in your car for one with a manual gearbox.
Re Mercedes Power Output
Re a question by Peter Tcherveniakov (“Merc Mumbo”) at Response...
For power ratings of W126 5-litre+ sedans and coupes go to the W126 website - www.mb-w126-club
There were multiple power variations on this series - including an optional
non-catalyst version available in Europe, the US version (strangled) and more.
And, of course, many examples have found their way here as grey imports.
I've been a reader for a while now and have been influenced by your article
on the Galant VR4 (Australia's Best Value Performance Car)
to go and actually buy one! The questions I have are... Installing a 3 inch
turbo-back exhaust and improving the air intake will increase performance - but
how will this impact fuel economy? With the ever-rising cost of fuel, this is an
issue for me - especially as I'll have to fill up using more expensive 98
octane. Your article states the VR4 has ABS but some other sources suggest that
it does not. How can I tell if the car I receive is equipped?
In a side-by-side comparison it’s fair
to assume fuel economy will be enhanced. However, you’ll want to keep an eye on
mixtures and idle speed control after mods. A richer post-modification mixture
and a surging idle speed (a common problem for VR4s) will offset any economy
improvement. ABS is fitted to all Australian-spec VR4s but apparently not all
Japanese import versions. Have a look under the bonnet near the passenger’s side
inner wheel arch – if you can see a metal box with several small diameter metal
tubes connected, that’s part the ABS system.
I just subscribed to this magazine and the amount of information I get from
it is enormous - I wish I subscribed to it earlier. Keep up the good work!
Oh yeah, I’ve got a question... I’m currently building my CA18DET-powered
Nissan 180SX on a budget. I’ve already installed a bolt-on aftermarket
intercooler (260 x 200 x 70mm), which is still a side-mount thus eliminating
expensive custom pipework. I have also installed a bigger fuel pump (which flows
264.4 litres per hour at 43psi and 14V) together with a bigger turbo (a Garrett
T28 ball bearing from an S15 Silvia). I still run the stock ECU and injectors
(370cc if I’m not mistaken) at the moment with the boost set at 0.6 Bar. In your
opinion, is my fuelling and engine management system adequate to support my
Mohammed Bin Rozali
We assume you have also modified the
air intake and exhaust in addition to the mods you’ve mentioned. If this is the
case, the management and fuel system could benefit from some changes. Note that –
even in standard form – Japanese market turbo cars run a lot of ignition advance for the fuel octane available in Australia. An interceptor unit or plug-in
programmable management system will let you tune for performance and reliability
and, depending how much more power you want, upgrade injectors should also be on your
shopping list. Alternatively, you can keep the boost relatively low and continue
driving it as you are with a cautious ear for detonation...
I was wondering, with all your recent research into aftermarket
supercharging, whether you know the maximum amount of power that can be extract
from the crank pulleys of the typical mid to large sized vehicle? I want to run
a hydraulic pump from an electric clutch, but to get the most from my system I
need at least 60 litres per minute at 2500 psi. According to my formulae, this
means around 19hp (14kW)! Does that sound possible or should I limit myself to
less power? The typical vehicle for the application will be a large 4WD, such as
a Nisan Patrol or Toyota Landcruiser.
Thanks for any help you or the readers can provide and thanks, as always, for
a great daily read!
It’s impossible to determine the
maximum power that can be extracted from the crank pulley – there are simply too
many unknowns and variables. But, to answer the bit you’re really interested in,
we reckon a 6-rib belt should be fine for your 14kW drive application. An
adjustable tensioner may be also needed.
I have just read your article titled "Celsior Magnificence" - Celsior Magnificence...
The information I am chasing is the modification to inlet and exhaust
mentioned in the article. Do you
have a detailed description of what is required and any other suggestion for the
car? I have purchased a Celsior but
am unable to locate articles on modification to engine. Your help or direction
to where I would be able to source this information would be much
We do not have any details specific to
modification of the Celsior’s intake and exhaust. However, we suggest using a
manometer at various points of the air intake to find where you can improve
airflow. The same applies to the exhaust – install a temporary gauge fitting at
various points of the exhaust and measure backpressure. This will tell you how
much potential there is using an upgrade exhaust and, more specifically, what
part of the system is most restrictive. Do an AutoSpeed search under “manometer”
and “backpressure” to find relevant articles. We imagine the Celsior would also
respond well to engine management mods. An aftermarket interceptor (capable of
modifying a frequency signal) would be a cost-effective solution.
I was reading your article Sideways STi
and noted this statement in the text, “But to cut the mustard as a drift car you
need power - and lots of it”...
Although power is useful in drift, this is kind of a misleading statement.
Top level machines often make quite some power but it isn't a necessity. A
Queenslander named Josh Young does quite a good job in his naturally aspirated
4A-GE AE86 Toyota Sprinter and, even at a world-class level, drivers such as
Katsuhiro Ueo and Tetsuya Hibino can easily be called some of the best and most
impressive drifters in the world - with only 150-200ps (110 – 147kW) at their
disposal. I just thought I’d point this out since it seems to be a misconception
on the part of some newcomers to the sport (ie most Australians at this stage)
that drifting is a kind of moving burnout competition... Nothing against the car
or its aims of course (in the hands of Beau Yates that STi is a very impressive
machine), but my own aims for my SR20DET Nissan Gazelle drift car is an even 200
rear-wheel kW, which should give a nice mix of power and response. Anyway, apart
from that it's a great article - good to see something different. Although it is
still a WRX - I think you must have had every mod’d WRX in
magazine now (just kidding)! I look forward to seeing more great articles.
Jarich van Horck
In the article Breathing Deeply
you mention extrude honing. I have been trying to do research on it, however, I
haven’t been able to find a suitable webpage on where to find one who does
extrude honing in
Australia and how
much it costs. Could you please help me out here?
Can any readers offer some Australian
contacts for the extrude honing process?