Loved the Trip
I loved the "Away with AutoSpeed” article (Away with AutoSpeed) - a top idea to use all that as a story. Very interesting and I think it gives us a bit more of an inside view to what you do!
I currently own a 1983 Ford Laser Sport but I'm afraid its nuts and bolts heart (it currently has a 1500 twin carb) is on its last legs. I'm wondering what a suitable alternative might be. I've always wanted a bit more power as it already handles like it runs on rails. I don't want anything too difficult - a straight swap would be ideal, but maybe you have some suggestions?
The most straightforward swap is a Japanese market E5 or E6 1.5/1.6 litre SOHC turbo engine. But this will require, at minimum, an all-new high pressure EFI fuel system, major wiring work and the usual playing around with mounts, linkages and probably gearbox/driveshafts. It won’t be particularly cheap or easy. You might be better off saving for a later-model BF-series Mazda/Ford twin-cam turbo.
Lack of Euros
What is the selection process that AutoSpeed use in feature car articles? Do car owners nominate their cars? Also you don't seem to show many Euro cars like Audi, VW, etc - how come?
Each car is assessed on an individual basis – the extent of mods required depends heavily on the type of car and its popularity (ie a WRX with basic bolt-ons is not usually eligible unless there’s something else to support it).Feature cars are usually sourced through performance workshops and readers. The cars that we feature are a reflection of the sort of cars that are commonly being modified. We’d love to do more modified Euro cars – if you have one that you’d like featured, please let us know!
Regarding the In-Car PC Setting Up an In-Car PC, Part 1...
Media Engine is great software which uses Winamp to create an interface for Winamp designed for in car use. See www.mediaengine.org
My Australian-delivered S14 Series 1 Nissan 200SX has as a stuffed mass airflow sensor - the electrician's diagnostic unit output says 0.0V. Car idles rough, sometimes stalls and won't rev past about 1600-2000 rpm (depending on the gear) without coughing and blowing black smoke.
I need an airflow meter – I believe the part number is 22680 69F00. AFH50-18 is the other number on my meter.
I have found a few wreckers with S15 airflow meters – however, a few performance shops have told me that AFMs from other Nissans won't work on my car. I want the identical AFM with the part number listed above - your help would be greatly appreciated.
As far as we’re aware, the S15 airflow meter is the same as the S14’s. The only way to check is to compare part numbers or to call a Nissan dealership parts section – they should be able to look up whether they’re different. The RB-series Nissan engines run a different style of airflow meter (though still a hot-wire element with a voltage output).
DFA for Turbo’d 1.6
This email is in regards to the Digital Fuel Adjuster. I'd just like how comment on how great of a resource this site is to DIY performance enthusiasts. I am an extreme supporter of DIY sources.
I own a 1990 Mazda Miata (MX-5) 1.6 litre and am currently working on fuel management for my custom T3 turbo setup with a goal of 8 psi. I currently use a rising rate fuel pressure regulator but don't like the lack of adjustability and tuneability of it. I saw the Digital Fuel Adjuster and thought that this may be a great substitution, but I have a question about it. Can the DFA be used in conjunction with both a high pressure fuel pump and larger injectors (Miata stock injectors are 200cc/min I believe) to replace the rising rate fuel pressure regulator? Also, one the values for the different loads are set during the test run, does the DFA save them after turning the car off, or does it require adjusting again? Thank you from your US supporter who is eagerly awaiting a US distributor for all of these kits :)
Glad you’re enjoying it. Absolutely – the DFA can be used with a big fuel pump and high-flow injectors and allow you to remove the existing rising rate reg. And, yes, the DFA automatically saves your program changes – no need to reprogram after switching off.
I’m looking for the correct silver paint for my 1981 Holden VH 253ci Commodore sedan - I want to restore the car to almost mint condition, but can’t seem to find the correct paint and in a large quantity. I have an ex spray painter friend who will do the job if I supply the necessary paint. Can you please tell me the correct paint name and number and where I can buy it – preferably in Sydney.
We’re not sure – contact Holden’s national customer line.
I own a 4/98 Ford Explorer with the original suspension. What can you advise to improve it and where to purchase? It’s not used for serious 4WD-ing but for towing and dirt tracks. It currently handles like the proverbial bucket of s---.
It seems you’re not alone in wanting a better suspension tune for your Explorer – check out http://www.performancesuspension.com/Explorer.htm From what we can gather, beefier swaybars make a big improvement. We also suggest contacting local 4WD and suspension specialists to see what’s on offer.
NOS + LPG
Firstly, I have to say great job with the publication - I now no longer buy any magazines as they don’t have the technical depth of the articles shown here.
Down to a question I have had pondering in my head for a while... Is it possible to fit a nitrous oxide system (for drag racing purposes) to a dedicated LPG vehicle? I have searched everywhere and haven't found a single instance of it.
Thanks for the praise. We can’t see any reason why you can’t run LPG and nitrous, but we’ve never seen such a set-up being used. Maybe some readers can share some experiences?