The Language Harrier...
I noticed your article on the Toyota Harrier (New Car Test - Toyota Harrier/Lexus RX300)
and enjoyed reading it - especially the part about the central LCD screen...
"although its Japanese language certainly takes some exploration!"
I have just purchased such a vehicle - a 1999 model - and have received a
full handbook for the multi-function display. Unfortunately, it is in Japanese
and we do not even have a Japanese Embassy here. Can you help with a short
instruction as to the clock and air-con functions? Thanks from Africa.
Sorry, we can’t help you out – it’s
been four years since we drove the Harrier and we don’t remember how to operate
the clock and air-con (even if we once knew at all!). But congratulations on your
purchase – great vehicle.
O2 Sensor Fitment
I was wondering if the Smart Mixture Display (Smart Mixture Meter, Part 1) would work with an older car
if I fit an O2 sensor. I have a Datsun 260Z with twin SUs and would like to see
the mixtures and make adjustments to the needles, if necessary.
Yes, this approach can work – we’ve
fitted an oxy sensor to a carby car before. We used a single wire oxygen sensor
(which takes longer to reach operating temperature but is relatively easy to
hook up). Fitment will usually require drilling a hole through the front section
of exhaust and welding on a lug (or nut) with the same thread as the sensor.
Alternatively, some Daihatsu and Toyota oxy sensors use a 2-bolt flange.
Note that you’ll need to run the
engine on lead-free fuel to avoid poisoning the sensor element.
In your article Eliminating Negative Boost - Part 2 you give much detail and
importance to the Dwyer Magnehelic Gauge. I contacted Dwyer and requested a
catalogue which I received. I'm confused as to what model in the 2000 series
would best serve my purpose. I'm interested in finding restrictions to airflow
and finding the best location for cold air intake ducts as you did. Some read in
"kPa" units and some read in "inches of water" and there are various ranges.
Which is best?
The highest flow restriction we’ve
seen in a factory air intake is just over 50 inches of water - as measured in a
’94 Subaru WRX. That means, for intake restriction measurement, you should use a
gauge that reaches around 50 inches of water.
On the other hand, to site a cold air
intake, you need a gauge that is sensitive enough to identify aerodynamic
pressures at moderate road speed. For this, you want a gauge that measures up to
around 5 inches of water at full scale deflection.
Unfortunately, no single Magnehelic
gauge can be used to accurately measure aero pressure (at a sane road speed) as
well as total intake system restriction.
For aero testing we use a gauge with
either a 1 or 3 inches of water range. For intake testing, we use a gauge that
reads up to 40 inches of water – and even that wasn’t enough in the case of the
It doesn’t matter if you go for a
gauge that reads in kPa or inches of water – to convert a measurement from
inches of water to kPa, simply multiply by 0.248.
Under-Bonnet Pressure Ideas
Great article on under-bonnet pressures - Undertrays, Spoilers & Bonnet Vents, Part 1.
A suggestion for a future article... increasing airflow through top-mounted
hood scoops and intercoolers. One can tell from the dirt deposited on the TMIC
on Subies that most of the airflow is (of course) at the back of the IC. How can
we improve that?
Subies are very good in not overheating (ie they maintain a stable coolant
temperature). I wonder if I could block off part of my Subaru’s radiator intake
to decrease the under-bonnet pressure and maybe get more air flowing through my
Interesting idea. In theory, your idea
of reducing radiator flow makes sense – just be careful how much you block off
if you try it! If you go ahead with it let us know your results. Note that a
bigger bonnet scoop is said to make a difference to WRX intercooler performance
– but we haven’t tried it.
Turbo at its Limit?
Can a T25G turbo (from a Nissan S13 Silvia) support 220kW? If not, can you
suggest a no-lag turbo that I can throw into my non turbo S13? Even if a T25G
can support 220kW, would a different turbo deliver better power?
From what we’ve seen, a standard
Silvia SR turbocharger can manage 220kW – so long as there’s good intercooling
and everything else is running as it should. This is, however, running near its
limit - the ceramic turbine can fail if used for extended periods at this sort
of power output. In a street application you shouldn’t have any major
Yes, a bigger turbo will let you make
more power – even at the same boost level. The downside is worse lag,
bottom-end torque and cost.
Got an interesting item for your Using Multimeters series
- a plastic clamp that fits over a wire and allows you to probe it through a
hole in the clamp. No slips into your finger, shorts or broken wires! (The clamp
pictured here is available from Elecspress Pty Ltd – phone +61 3 9294 1000.)
I have a 1992 Celsior, engine code 1UZ-FE 3968cc. Is this engine
supercharged? What would the horsepower be? What does the two-way switch market
‘ECT’ (next to the auto gear stick) stand for?
No, the 1UZ-FE is a naturally
aspirated DOHC, 32 valve V8. We have seen aftermarket supercharger kits, but a
blower was never factory fitted. Early (non variable cam timing) 1UZ-FEs are
listed at around 190kW. ECT = electronically controlled transmission. There are
two modes – one for economy and one for power.