Evo GT-A Feedback #1
enjoyed your article on the Mitsubishi Evo GT-A (Evo with Auto?!
- a different beast indeed. While it is a small point, I just thought I'd let
you know the "Active Diff Control" (ADC) you wrote about is actually called
"Active Centre Diff" (ACD).
If any of your readers are interested, there's a
company in the UK who prepare Evo 7s for rally and they have some technical info
on the ACD system - see BTR Preparations.
They state that Ralliart make three versions of the ACD ECU controller - the one
that comes with the car from factory, and a K1 and K2 model which apply more
aggressive hydraulic control to the diff. Apparently the K1 is for fast
road use (they say it makes the car faster and easier to drive), while the K2 is
for rally and shortens the life of the system due to its aggressiveness.
Evo GT-A Feedback #2
own a GT-A and, based on the information and the pictures you set up for the
review Evo with Auto?!
, there's a couple of
discrepancies I'd like to point out...
The rear end has Altezza lights rather than the
Evo VII red taillights. There's a logo on the bottom left that says Lancer GT-A
rather than just Lancer. The engine valve cover says EVOLUTION instead of DOHC
16 VALVE (EVOLUTION denoting the VII engine). The steering wheel has plus/minus
style shift buttons and is 3-spoke leather rather than the plain Mitsubishi grey
with 4 spokes. And the auto trans launch HARDER than the manual because it has a
smaller turbo and the transmission is matched to the turb.. Put your foot on the
brake, rev it to 3000 and launch...
Honda Hot Up
I was just reading an article written by Peter
Oost in Issue 144 - A Shot in the Integra's 'R's. I have a
Honda Integra '94 GSi and was considering modifications (bolt-ons, exhaust,
extractors, etc). My concern was that in the article, the writer claimed that
some people had done mods to their Integras and have lost power. What I really
want out of the car is more low-end torque because, as you probably already
know, Integras seem very flat under the 4 grand mark. I have got quotes from
tuning joints but I am not sure if they want what's best for my car or for their
pockets. I would really appreciate some help on this matter, like
recommendations on what to do to my car and what to avoid that would work in the
best interests of what I would like to achieve. And if you know of any tuning
shops that you have visited/trust I would greatly like to hear of them. Thank
you very much for taking the time to read of my dilemmas on this issue.
For low-end torque we suggest you modify the
management system (maybe a UniChip) to optimise the timing and mixtures. Running
98RON fuel would be wise. Quality intake and exhaust mods should give a power
gain probably more toward the top-end - you might also pick up some torque in
the lower/mid rev range.
I've read your extensive information on the BOVs
(blow-off valves) and I thank you. I have a question... maybe you can help
me? I own a stock '04 Subaru WRX with 300 miles and after heavy boost
in second gear (to around 6000rpm) and a sudden close of the throttle the car
will surge or jerk. Is this the nature of a higher boosted vehicle and a BOV
that returns the 'blown off' air to the intake before the airflow? Point me in
the right direction if you could.
This driveline snatch is a characteristic of
the Subaru all-paw driveline. Believe us - we know! The snatch becomes even more
pronounced when engine output is increased (such as with higher boost pressure).
Maybe change your driving style slightly to see if you can get around the
Which Way to Go?
Great mag and I've been a subscriber for ages now
- no end in sight either! I've been looking for a new/near new car
lately and have finally got the green light from 'she who holds the
purse'... We're really very interested in the Mazda 6 (either Limited or
Classic guise) and have a couple of questions regarding your recent article.
Since I live in central Queensland and do a fair bit of long distance driving,
seat comfort is critical - could you get it such that "bum-numbing" wasn't a
concern? Does this car have the goods for the $30-35k midsize range or does
the Accord Euro pip it? Any other suggested vehicles that I should
investigate before forking out the cash? Thanks and keep up the excellent
official word from Julian (who tested both the Honda Accord Euro and Mazda 6) is
to go for the Honda. A great car.
A good friend of mine (a 'rotary head') told me
about intercooler water sprays. He also told me I could use it in my air intake.
Can you tell me what I would need to buy? My friend said I can use my windshield
washer fluid reservoir to put in half alcohol and half water, saying it would
give me about 15 horsepower.
Have a read of Water Injection -
this article should answer all of your questions! Also, read the following series - Motor Speed Control Module - Part 1. We
wouldn't be so bold as to suggest a specific power gain, however.
I have a 1987 Toyota Corolla twin-cam 16-valve
(4A-GE) and I have some lumpy performance camshafts sitting in the shed. I know
they're for a Toyota Corolla but I'm not sure of their specs. I was
wondering what kind of mods I would need to have these fitted, what kind of
performance enhancement would be noticeable, what kind of tune I would need (if
any) and how much it should
Performance cams typically bring
more top-end but with reduced low/mid-range torque. Idle quality is also
deteriorated. We would be very reluctant to fit them without first knowing what
the cam specs are - if they're really wild, you may need to upgrade the valve
springs as well. And, yes, a re-tune is generally required - an interceptor
module or a remap of the factory ECU should be fine. Tuning should be done on a
chassis dyno. The all-up cost will be considerable after everything is fitted
and tuned. We suggest looking to the 100kW version of the 4A-GE for tuning
directions. Either that or you can go for the supercharged 4A-GZE...