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Response

Some of this week's Letters to AutoSpeed!

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Evo GT-A Feedback #1

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I enjoyed your article on the Mitsubishi Evo GT-A (Evo with Auto?!) - a different beast indeed. While it is a small point, I just thought I'd let you know the "Active Diff Control" (ADC) you wrote about is actually called "Active Centre Diff" (ACD).

If any of your readers are interested, there's a company in the UK who prepare Evo 7s for rally and they have some technical info on the ACD system - see BTR Preparations.  They state that Ralliart make three versions of the ACD ECU controller - the one that comes with the car from factory, and a K1 and K2 model which apply more aggressive hydraulic control to the diff.  Apparently the K1 is for fast road use (they say it makes the car faster and easier to drive), while the K2 is for rally and shortens the life of the system due to its aggressiveness.


Patrick Felstead
Australia

Evo GT-A Feedback #2

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I own a GT-A and, based on the information and the pictures you set up for the review Evo with Auto?!, there's a couple of discrepancies I'd like to point out...

The rear end has Altezza lights rather than the Evo VII red taillights. There's a logo on the bottom left that says Lancer GT-A rather than just Lancer. The engine valve cover says EVOLUTION instead of DOHC 16 VALVE (EVOLUTION denoting the VII engine). The steering wheel has plus/minus style shift buttons and is 3-spoke leather rather than the plain Mitsubishi grey with 4 spokes. And the auto trans launch HARDER than the manual because it has a smaller turbo and the transmission is matched to the turb.. Put your foot on the brake, rev it to 3000 and launch...

Weicher Yeung
Singapore

Honda Hot Up

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I was just reading an article written by Peter Oost in Issue 144 - A Shot in the Integra's 'R's. I have a Honda Integra '94 GSi and was considering modifications (bolt-ons, exhaust, extractors, etc). My concern was that in the article, the writer claimed that some people had done mods to their Integras and have lost power. What I really want out of the car is more low-end torque because, as you probably already know, Integras seem very flat under the 4 grand mark. I have got quotes from tuning joints but I am not sure if they want what's best for my car or for their pockets. I would really appreciate some help on this matter, like recommendations on what to do to my car and what to avoid that would work in the best interests of what I would like to achieve. And if you know of any tuning shops that you have visited/trust I would greatly like to hear of them. Thank you very much for taking the time to read of my dilemmas on this issue.

Pedro Gallardo
Australia

For low-end torque we suggest you modify the management system (maybe a UniChip) to optimise the timing and mixtures. Running 98RON fuel would be wise. Quality intake and exhaust mods should give a power gain probably more toward the top-end - you might also pick up some torque in the lower/mid rev range.

Me? Jerk?

I've read your extensive information on the BOVs (blow-off valves) and I thank you. I have a question... maybe you can help me? I own a stock '04 Subaru WRX with 300 miles and after heavy boost in second gear (to around 6000rpm) and a sudden close of the throttle the car will surge or jerk. Is this the nature of a higher boosted vehicle and a BOV that returns the 'blown off' air to the intake before the airflow? Point me in the right direction if you could.




Frank O'Brien
USA

This driveline snatch is a characteristic of the Subaru all-paw driveline. Believe us - we know! The snatch becomes even more pronounced when engine output is increased (such as with higher boost pressure). Maybe change your driving style slightly to see if you can get around the problem.

Which Way to Go?

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Great mag and I've been a subscriber for ages now - no end in sight either!  I've been looking for a new/near new car lately and have finally got the green light from 'she who holds the purse'...  We're really very interested in the Mazda 6 (either Limited or Classic guise) and have a couple of questions regarding your recent article. Since I live in central Queensland and do a fair bit of long distance driving, seat comfort is critical - could you get it such that "bum-numbing" wasn't a concern? Does this car have the goods for the $30-35k midsize range or does the Accord Euro pip it? Any other suggested vehicles that I should investigate before forking out the cash? Thanks and keep up the excellent work.

James Marshall
Australia

The official word from Julian (who tested both the Honda Accord Euro and Mazda 6) is to go for the Honda. A great car.

Wet'n'Wild

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A good friend of mine (a 'rotary head') told me about intercooler water sprays. He also told me I could use it in my air intake. Can you tell me what I would need to buy? My friend said I can use my windshield washer fluid reservoir to put in half alcohol and half water, saying it would give me about 15 horsepower.


Patrick Taylor
USA

Have a read of Water Injection - this article should answer all of your questions! Also, read the following series - Motor Speed Control Module - Part 1. We wouldn't be so bold as to suggest a specific power gain, however.

Cammy Corolla

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I have a 1987 Toyota Corolla twin-cam 16-valve (4A-GE) and I have some lumpy performance camshafts sitting in the shed. I know they're for a Toyota Corolla but I'm not sure of their specs. I was wondering what kind of mods I would need to have these fitted, what kind of performance enhancement would be noticeable, what kind of tune I would need (if any) and how much it should cost.

Tim
Australia

Performance cams typically bring more top-end but with reduced low/mid-range torque. Idle quality is also deteriorated. We would be very reluctant to fit them without first knowing what the cam specs are - if they're really wild, you may need to upgrade the valve springs as well. And, yes, a re-tune is generally required - an interceptor module or a remap of the factory ECU should be fine. Tuning should be done on a chassis dyno. The all-up cost will be considerable after everything is fitted and tuned. We suggest looking to the 100kW version of the 4A-GE for tuning directions. Either that or you can go for the supercharged 4A-GZE...

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