Get Your Mitts On These
Insulating the Return... Clark Rubber in Melbourne
(Greens Rd in Dandenong) has a Neoprene type material that is about 5mm thick
and is perfect for the type of insulation you have covered in the recent
article. The piece is about 1.4 metres high and a 1 metre in length. Cost is
AUD$83 and there is more than enough to do two cars - I'm doing this with
another owner to cut the cost in half.
You recently published an article entitled Coffee Kick on a
As the owner of the car I would just like to thank you for the opportunity to get
my car onto your website so that people could appreciate the time and work that
has gone into the development and build-up of the little rocket. I'm also
grateful for the fact that the actual article was written without mentioning any
corny coffee puns or that it is a very small car - a fact that I'm well aware
of... So, in closing, thank you to AutoSpeed.
Glad you liked the
story! We always enjoy writing about truly different cars that their owners obviously love.
A question... I am part of restoring a classic rally car - a
Mustang 2.3-litre Turbo SVO Coupe with a blow-through set-up. We are fitting a
new turbo and having new manifolds made and we're wondering whether intercooling
would be helpful or not? We have been told by all and sundry in the car club
that unless it's fuel injected we're wasting time and money trying to intercool
a blow-through carby set-up. What's the verdict from people who really know -
An intercooler will potentially increase both power and avoid detonation.
In a blow-through installation the 'cooler can be installed between the turbo and the carby -
just like it's mounted before the throttle(s) in an injected turbo engine. We've
fitted an intercooler to a blow-through Daihatsu Charade turbo and enjoyed great
results. Don't hang back - just make sure the intercooler has adequate
charge-air flow and reasonable heat-exchange performance.
Re the injector flow chart on your website Injector Flows The injector listed as Denso
315cc light green also fits October '93 onwards Toyota 3S-GE.
I'd like to thank all of the staff at AutoSpeed for continuing
to provide the best value car magazine in the world! I have just been reading
your Driving Emotion article published 2/11/03 I am confused about
some of the details published from the Carrier air conditioning book. In the
text you state that a mitred 90 degree bend in a 3" tube has a restriction
equivalent of 4.6m of tubing, yet the chart below shows the equivalent as being
15m. Or is that supposed to be feet? Either way, that section of the
article is unclear. I hope you can provide some clarification.
At the beginning of the charts is the introduction "Losses in equivalent
feet of straight pipe".
Not Over the Moon
I am writing regarding the article comparing 25 intercoolers The World's Biggest Intercooler Comparison - Part One I was disappointed with it,
as it did not explain the very important point of why 'coolers with similar size
flowed so very differently. A good example would be the Mazda RX7 Series 6,
Mazda Cosmo and Mazda GD. These were ranked 2nd, 3rd and 22nd in flow, but
I count about 22, 19 rows and 27 rows of charge air ducts respectively. The
latter GD intercooler - with the most charge-air rows - actually came
22nd in airflow. My flabber was ghasted! I am attempting to design my
own intercooler for a Renault 5GT Turbo and am keen to get this flow business
One must not forget that the primary function is cooling and I
would have been very interested to see the differences between the above
mentioned 'coolers in that respect. But clearly there is something a little
strange about the flow thing. So are larger fewer ducts better? Is it the way
the end tanks are sized or the way the pipes join them? The best in this
test hardly look the best!
The reason we didn't explain the flow variations across
intercoolers was largely tied to the fact that we were unable to see inside many
of them. This meant we had no knowledge of the internal cooling fins and their
Cooling performance? Well, it's not practical to compare all
the intercoolers on a car - and that's exactly what you need to do to ensure
I'm 16 years old, living in New Zealand and own a 1992 Nissan
Pulsar GTi-R. I was searching the 'net for cheap Do-It-Yourself mods for a GTi-R
when I came across your site. It is an awesome site, but I couldn't find much
about mods for a GTi-R. Would you be able to write an article about GTi-R mods
or could you e-mail me back with some easy mods to do to my near standard
Specific to the
GTi-R we have done a handling upgrade story, a 'buying used' feature and a
feature car Suspension Intervention, Supercar Steal and Stealth Strike. Do
a search of AutoSpeed tech articles under titles such as "air intake",
"exhaust", "intercooling" and "boost" and you'll find heaps!
Which Way to Go?
Timing or boost - which makes more power? I drive a 1996 Nissan
200SX with a 76mm exhaust and pod air filter. The only pump gas available at our
high altitude is 93RON unleaded. I have increased the boost level to 0.8 Bar
without any detonation. Which of the following would be best for a daily driver
and drivability? Advance the ignition timing as far as possible without
detonation, or increase boost as far as possible without detonation? I would
prefer the car to have a bit more low-down grunt but would also like a little
more top end power.
If you're after a bit more low-down we suggest you advance
the ignition timing as far as you can - this will certainly improve bottom-end.
Visit DIY Detonation Detection - Part 1 and DIY Detonation Detector - Mk II to
see how to make a detonation detector. This will let you see how far you can go
with more timing and/or boost!