Too Much Asleep
I can't believe you guys left the 91-97 Saab 9000T off the sleeper list. Then can leave most non-turbo V6 cars behind while still provided excellent comfort.
PS Where is my water injection control system?
The Saab's one of our favourite sleepers - we've covered it before in a previous story ["Potential Performers"]. The DIY water injection electronic control system is now finished and we'd expect to run the story in the next four weeks. JE
In the article when you were modifying the VL Turbo Intake, you replaced the wire-supported convoluted pipe between the AFM and turbo with another piece. Is there any chance you could track down another piece of pipe the same and I will purchase it from you? I live 3 hours south of Perth and have been unsuccessful in many attempts to find a suitable replacement. The one that you used seems perfect. It even had the adaptor to push on the little hose (vacuum) that is on the original....is that correct. I would only be too happy to purchase it from you. I have bought many things through Autospeed Shop. As you are out and about, I'm sure you come across wreckers with these parts more than I do. Please let me know.
Also, my VL turbo is modified and has 270rwhp with standard computer and extra inj. By removing the mesh screens, can you see no problem arising from AFM having less restriction or different airflow over it due to restriction removed????
Many thanks and hope you can help me with my never-ending search for a replacement pipe for the convoluted piece.
P.S. Keep up the good work. Love the tech articles on VL-T. If you own a VL, don't live in WA...Not many people who know what they're doing, that's why I turn to you guys.
The adaptor hose was found by going through a big bin full of hoses - unfortunately we don't know what it was originally from, other than it was probably off a Japanese engine. With the power that your car has it would be better to start heading in the direction of programmable management rather than sticking with the factory system, but taking off the airflow mesh shouldn't pose too many problems in itself. As always, have the air/fuel ratios checked before and after the additional mod. JE
All-Nissan V8 Zed
I know you guys have an extremely hectic schedule but I'd really appreciate it if you could shed some light on the following matter: I was considering fitting a VH45DE or VH41DE over a RB25DET into my 1971 240Z and I was wondering if the above mentioned V8s ever came with a manual or what options would I have to run this engine in manual configuration.
Any feedback would be highly appreciated.
As you probably know, US-based V8s have been fitted in the past to the classic Zed. However we haven't heard of a VH 41 or 45 being fitted, and suggest that it might be pretty hard to do - the VH-series V8s are really big mothas. A manual trans can be adapted to any engine - if you have enough funds. The RB25DET straight-six is likely to be a lot easier, and will also be simpler than the V8 to cost-effectively tweak for extra power. JE
A Cooler 'Cooler?
I am seeking advice on the value of fitting a front mounted intercooler. I have an S15 200SX which is standard except for a 3-inch exhaust and additional cold air duct into the airbox. I have fitted the Jaycar temperature probe just before the plenum and have been monitoring inlet temperatures for several months. Steady cruising (no boost) sees inlet temperature of about 5-7 degrees C above ambient. A burst of say, 6000rpm in second and third gears causes temp to rise by about 10 degrees but return to normal fairly quickly. A sustained high rev run of about 10 minutes using 5-6000 rpm saw inlet temp of about 27 degrees above ambient with one spike of 33 degrees above ambient. Typically I would not drive on boost for more than 15-20 seconds at a time. Throttle response of the car seems to fall off a bit in warmer weather. Do you think I would get benefit out of a bigger intercooler - particularly in the area of general driveability when I am not giving the car a real thrashing?
PS I refer to last week's letter to the editor which wanted AutoSpeed for free. In my opinion less than a dollar a week is a bargain and I look forward to my copy every week. Keep up the good work.
The intercooler sounds like it is working well in all but sustained driving. This looks like a perfect application for our Intelligent Intercooler Water Spray, where the system can be set to operate only when the intercooler temp is over 10 degrees C above ambient. In typical driving (where the intake temp is less than 10 degrees above ambient) the spray won't operate, but in long duration hard driving it will come on, cooling the intercooler. On the basis of your measurements we wouldn't replace the intercooler with a bigger unit. JE
I love reading your mag and am most interested in the new technology. I'm also keen on keeping my driving licence and about economy.
Would you please consider developing two electronic devices for inclusion in your arsenal of published cheap tech wonders?
First: A digital speed readout. Why do most cars have speedos which read up to 240 km/h when the MOST IMPORTANT range is 60-80 km/hr and maybe a 10mm distance on the speedo dial. Hard to read when you see a speed gun. Since the speedo message is digital at the gearbox, is it possible "in parallel" to tap into this digital signal and make a 40 x 50mm readout screen to fit on the dash?
Second: If you don't have cruise control, is there a similar device which can set engine rpm? Thus on long flat roads setting the revs will go close to standardising the speed. Naturally this will be neutralised when the brake is touched.
The easiest way to gain an accurate, low-cost digital speedo is to use an LCD bike speedo. These work off a magnet attached to a wheel, but it may be possible to run one direct from the car's standard speed sensor (depending on the type of sensor). Re the setting of engine rpm, cheap, good quality kits exist for retrofitting cruise control - try Kmart. JE
Flow the Blow
After reading your article "Modifying the VL Turbo Intake", I decided to use the same system on my newly acquired VL-T. My concern is that a previous owner, (it has been played with by every man & his dog over the years) has changed the outlet duct running from the turbo to the throttle body. The duct consists of a very sharp, (mitred and welded!) 90 degree bend at the turbo end, before sweeping up smoothly to the throttle body. Is this modified outlet duct going to impede the performance of the car in any way and therefore need replacing with a mandrel bent pipe?
P.S. Thanks for a great site full of informative articles.
A mitred 90-degree bend straight out of the turbo is almost certain to cause a major flow restriction. JE
No Longer Asleep
I just read your article on the sleepers. I loved it; I have always been one of those guys that is a bit off centre. Anybody can make a Camaro go quick, but what about a four door Impala? I know you are well aware of the infamous Impala SS (the 94-96 model) but I decided that my 1984 brick-shaped box would be the best insult to those two door snobs. A couple of years and a few thousand dollars later I have a 400hp sleeper that if it doesn't beat you, will seriously piss you off. It's almost better than beating them. Almost.
Boost Pressure H20 Injection
I read with great interest your AutoSpeed article on water injection, specifically the section on a boost pressure-driven system. I'm considering building such a system for my car (turbocharged 1972 BMW 2002) and have contacted Spraying Systems about their air atomization nozzles.
My main area of concern is about whether atomization will be adequate under boost of say 5psi for long-term feeding into the compressor inlet. I would like to turn the system on down in this neighbourhood. Spraying Systems' literature gives nozzle flow rates at air/liquid pressures as little as 3psi, (for the SUE 15B valve), but do not quantify atomization effectiveness. Did you conduct any system tests with pressures in this (low) neighbourhood? If so, was atomization effective?
Spraying Systems is currently running mean droplet diameter tests at 3 and 5 psi for me. I have yet to get these data, but i would trust more in real-world anecdotal evidence from you anyway.
Thanks for any info you can provide, and for your fine articles.
The work by me with that nozzle was carried out many years ago, but from memory 5 psi was j-u-s-t OK - and 7 psi was good. JE