I've been looking through your various Subaru WRX and Liberty feature cars and they all seem to feature either a full-house surge tank set-up or some form of upgraded fuel pump with a pressure regulator. As part of a proposed turbo swap (probably a TD05 or a VF23) on my Liberty RS I'll need to upgrade the fuel system (the pump in particular) - what uprated pumps will bolt-on easily? Also what is the capacity of the stock injectors? Is it safe to run injectors at 100% duty cycle?
Why not first test the flow of the pump and see if it's adequate for the application? Any good workshop should be able to do this for quite a low charge with the pump left in place. We don't have a figure for the stock injector flow, and while it is not recommended that injector duty cycle be over about 90 per cent, plenty of people do run higher duty cycles than this in street applications without problems.
Boost Controller #1
Regarding the DIY Boost Controller ["The Audi's DIY Boost Control - Part 2"].
If, as in Part 2 of the DIY boost controller documents, I use better parts do I still need two 2069-02 07 0.7 Bar (Brown) springs for the better pressure regulator?
In Part One two 0.7 Bar springs were needed for the pressure regulator and the relief valve to limit the rates to 1 Bar etc... so do I still need a 0.7 Bar spring for the Metal Work Pneumatics MR BIT SR ? Micro Regulator mentioned in Part 2?
I am looking forward to building/testing and fitting this to my Evo II Lancer, as I have just fitted a 3-inch exhaust from the turbo, and have lost a little mid-range torque, and this should help I suppose! Thankyou very much for the information on your great web pages, and also for your response (in advance).
Have a great day, & happy tuning! :)
You should not need a new spring for the Metalworks controller.
Boost Controller #2
I have managed to locate most parts for the DIY boost controller [The Audi's DIY Boost Control - Part 2 ], but am having trouble finding the one-way valve that has a cracking pressure of only 1 psi.
I am located in Ottawa, Canada and can't seem to find a source locally or online. If you could direct me to an online source for these or would be willing to ship me a kit that contained the 1-way valve, the relief valve and the regulator, that would be fantastic (payment details can be worked out based on what is convenient to you). Also if these components were available through the AutoSpeed shop, that would be great. I know there would be interest if the set-up was available as a kit.
Thanks for your time and the effort put into researching the articles....
We don't stock the items in the shop because it is much cheaper for readers to buy the bits and pieces direct from pneumatics suppliers. The parts, or equivalent parts that do the same thing, are available worldwide - just make sure that you are dealing with a really large pneumatics supplier. You could probably use a one-way valve from a brake booster if you can't locate the specified one.
I would appreciate some advice about quick racks. I have a Pulsar GTiR that came equipped from Japan with 1.5-way locker diffs front and rear. When exiting a corner under full power the diffs lockup, which creates a very sudden change of attitude from understeer to oversteer. The driver needs to be very quick to catch the slide and it would be much easier to control if the rack were quicker. This would be advantageous as the driver wouldn't need to take their hands off the wheel as often to gain the required opposite lock. I have heard rumours that this is hard/impossible/expensive etc etc, but I can't see why? I was wondering if you knew anyone who has done this, does it or know why not to do it?
Quick racks used to be available for many cars in the Sixties and Seventies, but you very rarely see them being offered now. Other than finding a car from the same family with quicker steering, or making complex and expensive modifications to the steering arms or rack, we think that you're stuck with what you have. Perhaps you could look at changing those diffs instead...
Having just read Michael's comments about Japanese go faster cars ["Michael's Speed Zone"] I'd have to agree, especially having owned a GTX. But with reference to the Mazda and Lancer I must offer some defence that Michael did not.
These particular vehicles were meant as homologation specials, specifically for rallying. The manufacturers only intent for these vehicles was to present a package that met minimum customer demands for interior comfort but maximised the performance potential for those who were to use them as intended. So what happened to most of the GTR Mazdas? - the interior and seats were junked, the factory exhaust thrown out and new computer thrown in - they didn't lack mid range after that! but you wouldn't want to drive it up the Sydney-Newcastle freeway either...
I'm receiving very happy service from a '92 RS Liberty at the moment; it's a fine all-round performer with adequate refinement and appointments... but the car it replaced, an '84 323i BMW with 220,000km, had far better NVH levels and despite the kilometres, nothing inside the cabin rattled...
Cars are always a compromise, the best idea is to find the one that suits most of your situations most of the time and try to be content with its shortfalls.
In relation to a Letter to the Editor about RX7's, I would also like to see stories on heavily modified late model rotaries. I have a series V RX7 with many mods such as T04, Hatech ECU, FMIC, etc. My car is probably not good enough for a feature car but I would be happy to supply any information on any modifications I have done or that I have researched in the process.
I'm slowly developing the desire (and confidence!) to start a major work- an engine swap. I'm not sure yet what combination would be best. I do know that, as a first timer ease is the key, so I hope you could suggest a few common swaps, keeping in mind ease and expense. I was thinking maybe an old turbo Charade, with a (GTti?)1.3 twin cam, EFI, turbo engine. This means that all parts will be light, thus removing need for major workshop work (engine hoists, etc), ease of storage (for us young 'uns whose parents wont let us hog the garage), and an abundance of spare parts from the common Charade (I've learnt my lesson from my Starion). Perhaps a Mira with that 660cc turbo engine from a TRXX? Can you still get a 4wd version from Japan? (Did they actually exist?) I read that TRXX front cuts are virtually impossible to get...
Can you please help me (and your other readers) by pointing out any relevant articles from AutoSpeed that will assist? Much appreciated.
One good approach is to do things in a way that first appears to be backwards - find the engine first, then the car. That is, start off by trying to find a really good condition, complete and low-kilometre import half-cut (ie the front half of the car) at a wrecker. Make sure that the locally-delivered car was available with that engine (it's even better if the half-cut uses exactly the same body as the local car). Keeping it light and cheap certainly does make it easier, and don't go for too old a car. It will cost more to get the younger local body, but it will be a much better car and spare parts will still be available. If you can find the TRXX Mira half cut, it's a very easy swap into a local Mira of the same year. (Four-wheel drive Miras were available in Japan but putting all of that into a local body would be a nightmare for a beginner.) The Charade is another easy swap, but don't make it hard for yourself by picking the oldest local Charade and trying to put a much younger driveline in it. Sure it's possible, but the KISS principle really applies here. We've covered at least two articles directly relevant: "Intelligent Performance, Part 6 - Engine Swaps" and Tech Basics: Engine Swaps.
Congratulations for having the balls and integrity to report what you saw at Tickford. It's rare for us punters to receive such honesty.
Another Metric Converter
Re your upcoming metric conversion article. Working as an engineer (mechanical) for the past 8 years, conversions between many different systems of units gets fairly pass?. However, there are a couple of nice little utility programs that you can download for free that will automatically convert from almost any sort of units to any other sort and in any way you want to convert, if that makes sense. Go to www.coade.com and click on the downloads, then miscellaneous icons. Ignore all the nasty sounding engineering programs (they are only useful to propeller head designers such as me!) and download the Uconvert file. It's small yet very effective.
Knocking of Cars
I would just like to say that it is your willingness to bag cars, even ones you've owned, that makes me subscribe to AutoSpeed. Well that and the fact that you give reasons, technical reasons when you do so. Though I will point out that the Camaro you liked, not to mention very recent Porsches, both have engines as ancient as the Falcon.
Keep up the good work.
No recent Porsche has an old engine - after the 993 it's a clean sheet design. The Boxster engine - a new design too. As for the Camaro, AFAIK the basic engine design is also much younger than the Windsor - though certainly not as young as the Porsche. And the Camaro isn't being sold here new and being puffed up by local media as a groundbreaker... Thanks for your positives.
400hp NA RB30 Project
I am impressed with your Potent Player ["Potent Player"] article, but it's just another turbo!!! I am in the throws of trying to build a 400hp plus, NORMALLY aspirated RB30.
The specs so far, RB30 + 1.0mm bottom end, RB25 head, cams by Tighe Engineering Qld (+ 1.0mm lift and + 60 degrees duration), cast pistons 10.5:1 compression, induction by EFI Hardware (6 throttle bodies) HPC Coatings everywhere that's required, cold air inducted, electric water pump, thermatic fans, full balance, lightened flywheel, Motec M48 computer.
Have you got any great ideas that will help???????
Hello, I've recently read an article on your website on making a cheap and effective cold air intake for your car. Now in this article it says to use PVC pipe. Now the other day I was flicking through an old copy of another magazine, and it had a similar article that caught my attention. But surprisingly it clearly stated to never use PVC pipe as it can easily melt at even modest temperatures. Now I've been reading AutoSpeed for about a year now, and I really take your opinion as being the best, as you are an unbiased magazine. But it just got me worried, as the last thing I want is melted plastic in my engine bay. I would be very grateful if you could clarify this for me.
PVC pipe will soften if is exposed to high temperatures. So if you have a requirement for a cold-air duct to pass near extractors or a turbo, don't use PVC! However, in a typical application where the pipe is used to simply link air outside of the engine bay straight to an airbox mounted towards the front of the engine bay, the temperatures that are experienced are quite low and so there is no problem. Using PVC pipe has advantages over a flexible rubberised duct because the inner surface of the pipe can be kept very smooth and so the duct will flow better.
Heir/Fool Rachio Meetur
i heard you was having problems with the meter - not up to the task eh? well, i surpose thats what happens when jerno gimps try to do technical shit. dont wory, i wouldnot expect my secretary to be able to make one either!. you can buy these things from jaycar for $50, i have one on my v8 torana. i could help you make one if you want, and tune it on my car?
The meter that you have has no temperature correction, and so can vary in displayed AFR by over 2 ratios, even with the same actual AFR occurring. Take note of the warning given in the article on how to build it. We are not having technical problems with the meter, just time problems. And can we suggest that you get the spellcheck function working on your email?
Excellent work - really enjoy what you have done. I have a MY01 WRX hatch and have spent only $1000 in modifications to achieve respectable performance and handling, and the car is still easy and comfortable to drive. I have been reading Julian Edgar's literature for years now and this has given me the knowledge to achieve what I have. I have compared the car's performance with another identical model with thousands spent, and the owner of the other car believes that mine is faster. Thank you!
An Honest Review of the Mitsubishi Lancer
Far too often magazines only point out the high points of a car and sometimes forget that people actually have to consider long-term ownership. Here is a review of the Mitsubishi Lancer EVO VI Tommi Makinen Edition. It would appear that the car isn't really as perfect as some people would like to think. Don't get me wrong, it is still my third favourite car, but it's interesting to see all of its shortcomings. This also has some great pictures.
"New Car Test - Lancer Evolution VI Tommi Makinen"